Journal of Art and Civilization of the Orient

Analysis of Northern Khorasan’s Kurdish Women’s Clothing in Layin

https://doi.org/10.22034/jaco.2024.459507.1410
Volume 13, Issue 47
Spring 2025
Pages 28-41
Journal of Art and Civilization of the Orient

Document Type : Review

Authors

Zeynab Gerivani 1
Reza Akbari Bengar 2

1 M. A in Fashion Design, Department of Fashion Design, Faculty of Art and Architecture, South Tehran Branch, Islamic Azad University, Tehran, Iran.

2 Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Design, Faculty of Art and Architecture, South Tehran Branch, Islamic Azad University, Tehran, Iran.

Abstract
Clothing plays a significant role in preserving the cultural and identity values of any region. This study focuses on the clothing of Kurdish women from Northern Khorasan in Layen, located in Razavi Khorasan province. These garments represent one of the oldest forms of Kurdish women’s clothing in Khorasan. In the current tumultuous modern world and the transition from tradition to modernity, these clothes are now only worn during ceremonies and festivals. Understanding the cutting and sewing techniques of traditional clothing, which are rooted in the cultural and identity aspects of each ethnic group, can help prevent their obsolescence and pass this indigenous knowledge to future generations. This study examines the processes of cutting and sewing these garments, illustrating a broad design and classifying the components of the aforementioned clothing for preservation. Consequently, this study is descriptive-analytical, with data collected through fieldwork (interviews and observations) and archival information. The results indicate that the components  of clothing of Kurdish women from Northern Khorasan in Layen can be categorized into “Bady Garment,” “Outer Garment,” and “Head Covering,” including “Pacheh,” “Zir-Pirahan (in English underdress),” “Pirahan (in English  dress),” “Niv-taneh,” “Kole,” “Shal,” and “Shar.” Local tailors of Layen’s Kurdish community do not use pre-drawn patterns; instead, cutting is done directly on the fabric. The cuts are simple, avoiding complexity and waste.

Keywords

Women’s Clothing
Traditional Sewing
Northern Khorasan Kurds
Layen
• Akbari. M (2016). ثبت ملی مهارت دوخت پوشاک کردی زنان لایین کلات [National registration of Kurdish women’s sewing skill of Lain Kalat]. Young Journalists Club. Retrieve 22/8/2024 from  https://www.yjc.ir/00R715
• Ansari Mood, M. H. (2010). در جست‌وجوی هویت شهری بجنورد [In search of Bojnord urban identity]. Urban Planning and Architecture Study and Research Center. [in Persian]
• Elahi, M. (2010). Dress as Identity. National Studies Journal, 11(42), 3-30. https://dor.isc.ac/dor/20.1001.1.1735059.1389.11.42.1.2 
• Elahi, M. (2019). طراحی لباس 1: تأثیر و تدابیر خطی  [Fashion design 1: The Influence of Linear Measures]. Jamal Hanar Institute. [in Persian]
• Gerivani, Z., Akbari Bengar, R. & Jafari, H. (2023a). A Comparative Study of the Clothing of Nomadic and Non-nomadic Kurdish Women in North Khorasan. Journal of Art and Civilization of the Orient, 11(41), 16-29. https://doi.org/10.22034/jaco.2023.395530.1312
• Gerivani, Z; Akbari-Bengar, R., & Jafari, H. (2023b). Color Symbolism in the Clothing of Nomadic and Sedentary Kurdish Women of North Khorasan. Research in Arts and Humanities, 4(55), 39-48. 
•  Honarmand, P. (2019). مطالعۀ تطبیقی نقوش سرپوش کرمانج‌‌های کلات با سرپوش کردان مکریان کردستان [A comparative study of the headdress patterns of the Kurmanjis of Kalat with the headdresses of the Kurds of Makrian Kurdistan] [Unpublished Master’s thesis in textile and clothing design, Ferdows Institute of Higher Education].
• Houshangi, Sh. (2014). بررسی تحلیلی تطبیقی اجتماعی لباس زنان کُرد در کردستان و خراسان شمالی [A comparative social analytical study of Kurdish women’s clothing in Kurdistan and North Khorasan] [Unpublished Master’s thesis in Textile and Clothing Design, University of Science and Culture]. [in Persian]
• Hashemi, G. R. (2023). Investigation of key symbols in the motifs of nomadic kilims in Khorasan region (Kurmanj, Turkmen and Sangesar). Handicrafts of Great Khorasan, 1(3), 53-66. https://doi.org/10.22034/daraygah.2021.135050 
• Jamali, A.M., Sadeghi, A., & Adabi, M.H. (2011). Facies and Depositional Environments of the Shurijeh formation in Stratigraphic Section of Hamam Ghaleh, South of Kalat-e Naderi. Iranian Journal of Geology, 5(17), 87-102. 
• Khani, D., Khorasani-Taraghi, H., & Shirazi, A. (2013). A comparative study of Kurdish, Turkmen and Persian cultures in North Khorasan. Quartery Journal of Intercultural Studies, (22), 9-33.
• Majdi, A. A., Arabi, N., & Shadkam, G., (2019). جامعه‌شناسی ایلات و عشایر [Sociology of Eilat and Tribes]. House of Educational Sciences. [in Persian]
• Mounesisorkheh, M. (2017). Costume and Identity: Characteristics of Cultural Identity in Iranian Clothing. Glory of Art (Jelve-y Honar) Alzahra Scientific Quarterly Journal, 9(1), 107-116. https://doi.org/10.22051/jjh.2017.235. 
• Nataj Majd, A., & Safari, E. (2019). مطالعۀ شاخص‌های هنری پوشاک قوم کرمانج [Studying the artistic indicators of Kermanj people’s clothing]. New achievements in humanities studies, 29(3). [in Persian]
• Omidi, N. (2004). دیده و دل و دست (پژوهشی در پوشاک و (هنرهای سنتی خراسان [Dideh va Del-o-Dast (Research on Traditional Clothes and Arts of Khorasan)]. Behnashr. [in Persian]
• Stanzer, W. (2017). Lives, rugs, flatweaves of the Kurds in Khorasan (I. Tohidi, trans.). Avaye Rana. (Original work published 1993)
• Sarabyar, V. (2017). بررسی تحلیلی و تطبیقی البسۀ محلی کُردنشینان خراسان از منظر طرح و نقش (مطالعۀ موردی: لایین، قوچان، سرحد) [Analytical and comparative study of the local clothing of the Kurds of Khorasan from the perspective of design and pattern (Case study: Layin, Quchan, Sarhad)] [Unpublished Master’s thesis in Textile and Clothing Design, Yazd University of Science and Art].
• Tavahodi, K. (1984). حرکت تاریخی کرد به خراسان در دفاع از استقلال ایران  [Kurdish historical move to Khorasan in defense of Iran’s independence]. Vase. 
• Vatandoost, S. (2015). پوشاک و زیورآلات عشایر کرمانج خراسان [Clothing and Ornaments of Kormanj Khorasan nomads]. Amoulavi. [in Persian]
• Yarshater, E. (2003). Encyclopedia Iranica (P. Matin, Trans.). Amir Kabir. (Original work published 1982)
• Zolfaqari Keykanlu, M. (2017). بررسی نماد، نقوش و نگاره‌‌های سفره کردی در خراسان [Examination of Kurdish table symbols, motifs and images in Khorasan]. Bijan Yurd. [in Persian]

Home

Submit Manuscript

Contact Us